Restaurant Review: Cozumel

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Whitewater has more than one Mexican restaurant, and when there are at least two, there’s bound to be a question of which is authentic, genuine, somehow true to Mexican cuisine, etc. It’s not the only question, though: a necessary, preliminary question is whether the restaurant serves enjoyable fare. Ask that initial question, and you’ll get an answer that truly does matter.

Cozumel, located in a small strip mall on Whitewater’s west side, is a good choice for Mexican cuisine in Whitewater. The food is enjoyable, the décor festive and happy, and the staff attentive, all at reasonable prices. (Cozumel has more than one location; this review derives from three visits to the Whitewater location on Main Street. I’d not review a large chain; this review is of a small local establishment, with two sister restaurants.)

I’m no admirer of a strip-mall aesthetic, but the match between location, design, and patrons is a choice among many people, and not one critic. There are limited locations in a small town; look past the entrance and good things may (and in this case do) await.
The tables and chairs display colorful carvings of parrots, and other animals, in sunny landscapes. It’s not subtle, but it is happy. Oddly disarming, really: sit for a bit, while having some chips and a Modelo Especial (a pilsner-style lager), and the atmosphere beguiles. The service is attentive, arriving at table quickly and visiting at convenient intervals during the meal.

Writing about what makes a good dish in a review of Karina’s, I observed an easy truth:

…what’s an entrée, what’s a principal dish? One might say that it’s a collection of ingredients. Under this thinking, a beef burrito might be the combination of beef, garlic, cumin, hot sauce, lettuce, tortillas, cheese, salsa (itself the combination of several ingredients), etc.

That’s true, of course, but it’s only part of what makes ingredients a dish.

Bronze is an alloy, of copper and tin, for example, but it’s only an alloy when of certain proportions, and when mixed together in a particular way. Sitting the elements next to each other isn’t enough.

Whitewater’s Cozumel succeeds because the dishes served are a proper whole, the ingredients mixed to form an enjoyable, single result. Spices and sauces are a full part of the dish, not merely a constituent element ostracized on one side of the plate, or on top of vegetables or accompanying ingredients. The result at Cozumel is flavorful throughout, tender throughout, with the right balance between different textures.

Cozumel has a large menu, with lunch and dinner choices from among seafood, poultry, beef or steak. Vegetarians will find good options, too (about six designated as such on the menu, with two choices of salads also wholly vegetarian, I’d say).

Among my favorites, and those of my dining companions: Milanesa (thinly sliced, grilled steak), Salad Cozumel (grilled chicken over romaine, red peppers, tomatoes), and Pollo Verde (grilled chicken with melted cheese and avocado sauce).

On my last visit a requested dish was unavailable from the kitchen; I did not encounter a similar situation on my other visits. In any event, everything served was properly prepared, with ample selections on offer.

Recommended. Go and have a good time, leaving others’ pretensions behind.

Enjoy.

LOCATION: 1139 W Main St Whitewater, Whitewater, WI 53190 (262) 472-0131. See, Google Map and directions embedded at the beginning of this review.

OPEN: Mon-Sat, 11 AM – 10 PM and Sun, 12 PM – 9 PM.

PRICES: Main dish and a drink for about $15.

RESERVATIONS: Unnecessary.

DRINKS: Tea, coffee, soda, Mexican beer, mixed drinks.

SOUND: Moderate level, from happy, chatty patrons.

SERVICE: Agreeably attentive.

VISITS: Three (lunch, two dinners).

RATING: Recommended.

RATING SCALE: From one to four stars, representing the full experience of food, atmosphere, service, and pricing.

INDEPENDENCE: This review is delivered without financial or other connection to the establishment or its owner. The dining experience was that of an ordinary patron, without notice to the staff or requests for special consideration.